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The one hotel you need to visit in Ireland

Sometimes you stumble across a place that makes you wonder if you've accidentally walked into a storybook. That's what happened when I arrived at Ard na Sidhe Country House Hotel outside of Killorglin, County Kerry, and I wasn't the only one who felt at home there.

A Real Life Fairytale

The name of this tranquil spot translates to 'the Hill of the Fairies'. What could have been a tourist trap designed to lure in tourists from across the pond with an idyllic picture of ‘Ireland’, actually manages to live up to the hype. This Victorian manor house, built by Lady Gordon in 1913, sits on the shores of Caragh Lake like something straight out of a period drama.

It is the kind of place where you half expect Mr. Darcy to emerge from the morning mist.

Our stay peaked when we were approached by two of the most confident wild animals I've ever encountered. A mother deer and her three-week-old baby have essentially moved in, and mama is only too eager to show off her spotted fawn. The kind of magical moment that made us forget that we were still in the real world.

No Distractions

We loved that there were no TVs in the rooms. Before you panic, they're available on request, but when your four-poster bed faces windows overlooking Caragh Lake? Netflix feels redundant.

The room itself was everything you'd want from a luxury country retreat – spacious, with a standalone bath, and genuinely the most comfortable bed I've slept in. 

Adventure Awaits

Ard na Sidhe sits on 32 acres of gardens with hidden pathways to be explored. We walked their fairy trail and made a wish at the top. When in Rome, etc.

Ard na Sidhe offers complimentary use of the rowing boat for a picturesque boat trip or fishing, as well as croquet if you're feeling particularly Victorian.

But honestly, just wandering the walled gardens or taking the looped trail around the property is adventure enough.

Caragh Lake runs surprisingly warm, even for someone who's been chickening out of sea swims all year (guilty). We put down a solid 10 minutes in the water, which is a personal lake-swimming record.

The Hotel Grub

The Dining Room restaurant deserves its own mention. The fresh local crab was exceptional, but it was the spiced monkfish special that sold me. Our two French waiters from Marseilles added to the experience with their unmistakable accents and clear passion for hospitality.

Breakfast was made to order across our two-night stay, giving us the chance to sample different options. The full Irish was perfectly homely, and the omelettes were equally good. There's also a continental buffet if you're after something lighter.

A Home Away From Home

What struck me most about Ard na Sidhe was how it manages to feel like a fancy home rather than a hotel. The spacious lounge became our evening headquarters – perfect for reading, playing Scrabble, or just nursing a cocktail from their drinks cabinet while listening to the harpist.

The whole place has this intimate feel that you don't get at larger hotels. Fresh flowers throughout (they have a florist on call), afternoon tea by the lake, or romantic picnics for couples looking to disconnect from reality.

Exploring Kerry

Ard na Sidhe is perfectly positioned for exploring Kerry – 30 minutes from Killarney, and an easy drive to Dingle and the Slea Head Drive. It's part of the same group as The Europe and Dunloe hotels, so you know the standards are solid.

The hotel sits right on the Ring of Kerry, so you're perfectly placed for day trips, but honestly, you may find yourself reluctant to leave. Between the deer, the lake, the gardens, and that sense of having stepped into someone else's perfectly curated life, Ard na Sidhe makes a compelling case for staying put and letting Ireland come to you instead.

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